![]() JDM Alliance LLC., will not accept returns or refund money for items that do not fit. IT IS COMPLETELY THE BUYER'S RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE SURE THIS ITEM WILL WORK FOR YOU PRIOR TO BUYING. ![]() While we do our best to assist you, further research maybe needed to check compatibility with your vehicle. At times, you may have to make modifications to make this work on your vehicle. It is your responsibility to verify with your Mechanic / Auto Body Technician prior to placing your order for this item to make sure it will work for you. This is an imported JDM Part Directly from Japan. Should you have any questions, please feel free to email me prior to placing your order. Please review them all carefully to see what the item comes with and the condition its in. I have taken lots of HD pictures of this item. Pictures of the Actual Item - What you see is what you get! We do not use Sample Photos! We also DO NOT, under any circumstances warranty shipping or labor. This item is sold in AS-IS Condition and is not backed by any of our warranties. ***Please review the pictures thoroughly and carefully for the nose cuts condition. PLEASE REFER TO PICTURES FOR CONDITION OF THIS ITEM.Īll the parts included as seen in the pictures for this item:Īftermarket Front Bumper - (There is some minor cracks on it) The nose cut / front end conversion is in good shape with small or minor dents, scuffs and surface scratches as you would expect from any used part. I'll get to those next month.Genuine JDM 94-01 Honda / Acura Integra Type R (ITR) DC2 DB8 Front End Conversion Kit / Nose Cut I didn't wire up the fog lights because I didn't have a relay handy. Because I was fitting an HID kit meant that I just had to wire up the high beams. You'll need to cut USDM headlight plugs and connect them to the rectangular plug-luckily, the wire colors match. The JDM light has a large rectangular plug and the USDM has two plugs for the high and low beams. The small issue of wiring the lights is really all that's left. ![]() All that's left is to secure both fenders, the hood and the bumper with the rebar behind it. You'll also have to cut a small portion of the side of the frame sheet metal, otherwise the JDM lights won't fit. ![]() Then take it all off and weld the support into place. If not, adjust the support until everything looks even. Before you go welding everything up, use some clamps to hold the JDM support in place and mock the front end up to see if all the gaps line up. We overlapped the JDM support onto the USDM one to ensure proper and precise fitment. With all that in mind, it was a no-brainer to cut only the portion that we needed to replace.Īs the pictures show, measure carefully, take your time and don't press too hard when drilling out the rivets as the metal tends to deflect quite a bit. The issue isn't the cutting itself but the spot welds that hold the support in need to be drilled out and that will take forever if you plan to cut it all out. Because it's thin sheetmetal, the support doesn't offer much structural rigidity and to cut it out completely would take a fair bit more time than to cut half of it out. You can cut the entire rad support out or cut a portion of it out. After you remove all of the USDM front end, including the bumper support, you'll have to cut the rad support off and use the JDM one because the headlight brackets and hood latch are in different locations. I'll skip the step-by-step process and quickly cover some of the more critical elements of the conversion since really all you're doing is swapping some sheetmetal over. As long as you measure twice and cut once, you'll be able to pull this off at home. Don't be intimidated, though-it's not as hard as it may look. This swap may scare some people because it requires cutting off part of the front rad support and welding on the JDM one.
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